Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Why I surf

People always ask me why I surf. Why am I so addicted to it. Well to start off when I was young I surfed because Kelly slated did it. I surfed because of the hype. I surfed because I got chics and got invited to these sick parties and events. And once I got all that it jus faded away and became stuff. But now thinking about it. It's about that feeling I get riding that wave. It's actually that first wave you ride that makes everyone comeback. It's like anything. If you did not like it on your first time your never gonna do it again. Like i Tryed baseball when I was young and I hated it and I never did it again. It just wasent for me... And in surfing. If you get a good wave your Hooked then and there. And You can't seem to leave it anymore. You jus wanna catch another wave . It's kinda like the mafia. Once your in. You Can't leave anymore. Haha. I have a lot of inner demons in me and If I diddnt surf Id jus explode. It's the only thing that calms me down a lot. And it's funny that alot of my friends always tell me that I'm such a nicer guy once I get off the water from surfing. Haha. And people always tell that I should start competing again. Make a big name for myself. I jus tell em I don't think I have the will to compete anymore. Well it's not as strong as it used to be. It's jus sometimes when you start competing. You get blinded with the things you get and you start to lose that joy feeling you get when you surf. It becomes more of a job that a passion. You expect so much from yourself and when you fail you feel like shit. I don't like that feeling. It's not why I started surfing. I surf cause I love it and enjoy being with nature and all it has to offer. The first wave I ever caught I remeber till this day. As clear as day. I went right, left, right. It was perfect. Purest moment of my life. and right there and then I was hooked. I thought to myself that this is the coolest thing in the world. And from that day on I'd surf everyday if I could. And that's how it started with that very one wave.

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